Friday 4 January 2019

PASSING THOUGHTS - LEAVING LERWICK HARBOUR


Leaving Lerwick Harbour is one of the great Shetland fiddle tunes composed by the legendary Willie Hunter. The melody is hauntingly moving, embodying the soul-stirring longing of love for place, family and friends: of home. If you have not heard the music, it has some of the mystically emotive qualities of Con Te Partiro (Time to Say Goodbye): see - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7AWRYDmFWk #


So it was not unusual for the poignantly evocative tune to come to mind as we left Lerwick by ferry after spending some months in Shetland. It was an interesting experience; one sees both Lerwick and Bressay in different ways as the ferry reverses out, turns and moves south for Aberdeen, leaving one with memories of other times and places experienced as the land is passed.



With the camera in hand, the images were snapped as various thoughts came to mind. These photographs have been included with a commentary explaining why the camera was pointed at these places.



The images are somewhat, perhaps appropriately, misty-eyed as they have been taken through the salt-blasted glazing of the ship’s windows washed only by storms. The focus is frequently hazed not only because of the glare and gloom of the dirty glazing, but also because one is trying to capture particular images quickly as the ferry moves out to sea, through the ‘sooth mooth’ as the locals call it. This gives rise to the term ‘sooth moothers’ - see: https://www.shetlanddialect.org.uk/john-j-grahams-shetland-dictionary.php?word=2332- that refers to visitors to Shetland who travel into Lerwick Harbour through its main south entrance from Aberdeen. Lerwick Harbour is Shetland’s best refuge from the raging seas. It is sheltered by the island of Bressay and has a north and south entrance. Baltasound is also sought after to get into a safe harbour. Like Lerwick Harbour, this sound is protected by an island - Balta Isle.




Lerwick

Mareel from ferry terminal

Not the public view
Mareel - Lerwick Arts Centre
 Council offices on left



The architect's vision

MAREEL
The Mareel is Shetland’s art centre: see - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mareel
Much has been written about the Mareel, how its public face is contrived by clever architectural lines and smart camera angles. The building is clearly seen for what it is from the water. This is an image that is rarely promoted in any publication relating to the Mareel. The usual photographic angle is taken from the north, in front of the Museum and Archives Building. Here the triangular window at the step in the ‘M’ and the sloping ‘M’ roof lines give the appearance, the illusiuon, of a clever, 3D shaping.
Another view taken from the street approach on the west adroitly aligns the roof angles with the perspective vanishing points from another carefully selected location to give the whole form an apparent coherence and smart massing that looks pleasingly satisfactory. The reality is that the shapes appear flat and somewhat awkwardly contorted. The building is squeezed onto its tight site between the harbour and the car park, with the public entrance space being a narrow footpath on a laneway approach to the Museum and Archives parking area. To the ordinary eye, the arts centre lacks the expansive and dramatic visions created by the canny camera – see: https://voussoirs.blogspot.com/2013/05/the-mareel-new-arts-complex-for-lerwick.html;https://voussoirs.blogspot.com/2014/04/seeing-what-we-believe-idyllic-visions.html; andhttps://voussoirs.blogspot.com/2013/12/surprising-mareel-numbers.html




The carefully-selected view from the west

No, not Gardie House

      Maryfield House

Gardie House

Bressay


Bressay  with kirk (centre) near the old ferry terminal: or is it a shed?

The RORO ferry at Bressay

Haswell-Smith's marvellous book on Scottish islands - in the ferry library

Mareel and Shetland Museum and Archives

The 'M' vision of the Mareel - not its public face


      Lerwick Town Hall

Town Hall dominates Lerwick's skyline






      View from town hall

The industrial fringe of town dominated by the turbine

Bressay walls




GARDIE HOUSE
Garide House is the ancestral home of the Laird, Sir John Scott and his wife, Wendy. It is a beautifully formal building, faux-Palladian in style, simply placed on its axis that stretches out to its garden walls on the harbour facing Lerwick on the Mainland opposite, on the other side of the water. The book, Gardie: a Shetland house and its people by Wendy Scott, published by The Shetland Times, tells its history: see - https://shop.shetlandtimes.co.uk/products/gardie-a-shetland-house-and-its-people

Gardie House - grandly simple classicism



A typical cottage - quaintly pretty but not vernacular

Gardie House on axis

A beautiful faux-Palladian layout









Bressay Kirk - the first close glimpse: is it really a kirk?



BRESSAY KIRK
When this tiny box of a waterside building was first glimpsed, it was unclear whether it was a kirk or a harbour-side shed; and if a kirk, one wondered if might still be in use, or merely derelict. The bellcote confirmed that the shed was, or had been a kirk. As the ferry slid past, the openings in the southern wall were revealed: they had every characteristic of a sideways kirk – see: https://voussoirs.blogspot.com/2017/04/shetlands-sideways-churches-creativity.html It was an extremely exciting find that just had to be checked out later.
It was checked out: see below; it was a kirk; and it was a sideways plan: see – https://voussoirs.blogspot.com/2013/02/lunna-kirk.htmlhttps://voussoirs.blogspot.com/2013/02/whalsays-kirk.html;  https://voussoirs.blogspot.com/2015/06/tingwall-kirk.html; and https://voussoirs.blogspot.com/2018/12/dunrossness-kirk-surprising-sideways.html
The Bressay Kirk will have to be visited next time we are in Shetland.


Bressay Kirk - hints of a sideways kirk!






BRESSAY CHURCH
Bressay's present church dates back to 1814, though it replaced an earlier church on the same site built in 1722. It lies at Mail, close to the pier used by the small ferry to Lerwick until the introduction of car ferries in 1975.
Externally, the church is a fairly plain grey-harled box, with a bellcote at the top of the west gable. The bell in residence dates back to 1858. It seems likely that the material it was cast from, in London's Whitechapel, came in part from an earlier Bressay bell dating back to 1723.
The focal point of the interior is the pulpit mid way along the south wall. There was a major rework of the interior in 1895. The two stained glass windows, one either side of the pulpit were installed at this point. They commemorate John Ross, who was a local schoolmaster from 1843 to 1878, and Sir Robert Hamilton, 1836-1895.

One will have to check the clues to see if it is a sideways kirk - gone!
Ferries don't stop for inspections.





The farm

Bressay Lighthouse



Signs of settlement




Signs of our digital era

Bressay Lighthouse Complex: defined place




BRESSAY LIGHTHOUSE
This is yet another Stevenson lighthouse. These structures are distinctive because they come from the same firm, using the same model, the same forms, details and colours used for all of their lighthouses. This particular lighthouse sits as a beautifully confined complex, like a tiny walled town. The buildings are remarkable as architectural pieces for their time, being designed by an engineer and constructed in 1858. Just consider what was happening in architecture at this time. It would be many years before le Corbusier would be building his white structures with flat roofs. It was le Corbusier in his Towards a New Architecture, first published in 1927, who argued the case for modernism, using engineering structures as one example of beautiful building: see - https://voussoirs.blogspot.com/2015/12/stevensons-lighthouse-eshaness.html  and  https://voussoirs.blogspot.com/2017/03/stevenson-lighthouse-butt-of-lewis.html







BRESSAY LIGHTHOUSE

Situated on the rocky headland at the south entrance to Lerwick Harbour, Bressay Lighthouse is an iconic image for any visitor to the isles.
Passing the ‘Bressa Light’ is the start and finishing post for any journey to or from Shetland by sea, and is a welcome landmark for locals and visitors alike.
The nineteenth century lighthouse provides a tranquil and peaceful retreat with open views across the sea. Perfect for a family holiday, or enjoying a getaway with friends, the opportunity to stay in one of Shetland’s most famous landmarks is not to be missed.
The beautiful island of Bressay, just off the east coast of mainland Shetland, offers the perfect combination of isolation while still having all amenities right on your doorstep. A five minute ferry journey takes you to the capital town of Lerwick with its five star museum, restaurants, bars and shopping facilities.
History
Bressay Lighthouse was built in 1858 and designed by brothers David and Thomas Stevenson, of the famous Stevenson family of lighthouse engineers.
David initially believed that building a lighthouse in Shetland would be too dangerous and expensive and that “any ship which took this route must be mad.” Despite the reservations, the lighthouse was built by local firm Alex Wilson. The construction cost £2324 15s 5d with additional costs of almost £250 for machinery and reflector panels. This is roughly £198,000.00 in today’s money, which is quite good value when considering the first Head Lightkeeper received £53.00 per year – equivalent to £36,000.00 today.
The light has provided a timely warning for many mariners over the last 140 years and still provides a welcome sight for many travellers heading north to these isles.
The light was fully automated in 1989 and the lighthouse keeper’s cottages were sold to the Shetland Amenity Trust in 1995 for use as self catering accommodation. The actual light remains under the responsibility and care of the Northern Lighthouse Board.

An intriguing gathering of designed pieces; a tiny town







Typical Stevenson detailing



















Noss







NOSS
Noss is a small island off the east coast of Bressay – see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noss

It is a National Nature reserve known for its abundance of bird life. The island has a distinctive profile that dominates the east-coast vistas of southern Mainland Shetland as one looks north.

 A profile as memorable as that of Foula's







Goodbye


      Birds at Noss

NOTE: All the images snapped during the departure have been included, good, bad and indifferent. They have been left in the order they were taken, to maintain the feel of the occasion.
The images offset to the left have been taken from Google Images.



#
The images shown on YouTube seem less appropriate than those recalled from older times. In the 1970s, the ferry from Aberdeen, remembered for its polished brass and lacquered timbers, was always met with a crowd of Lerwegians filling the wharf area, waiting to greet friends, or to just enjoy the arrival from afar. On leaving the boat, one had to push through the crowd with luggage in tow to get to, in our case, the bus stop for the trip north. This pick-up place happened to be outside the Viking Cafe that was a short way up the hill from the harbour. Today this location is still the bus terminal for Lerwick, and has been developed to accommodate these vehicles.

Old Lerwick Harbour


The Viking Cafe - then

The Viking Cafe - now

31 January 2019
Old photographs found in the files:

Victoria Pier, Lerwick on arrival of St. Clair (11), late 1930's

Lerwick circa 1930 - Viking Cafe on far right of frame


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