Sunday 6 January 2019

TOURISM - CITY COMES TO TOWN


We live in an era when cruising the oceans in luxury liners has again become desirably fashionable.







The new advertisements are not as stylish as those of earlier times




Every day one sees advertisements for these ocean journeys, sometimes offering 'free' flights or drinks, but always promising the sheer height of affordable, lazy luxury for everyone. Some even boast of passengers being able to 'live fully,' whatever this might entail. The images suggest swimming, lazing around with a cocktail, dancing, and dining in smart outfits, all in glitzy, ‘first class’ surroundings. Is this really all there is to life and its living ‘fully’?









Ours is a Trumpian era, (see sidebar: Clever People Self-Doubt), where everything of value not only has to be glitzy and slick, like Trump Tower, but also has to be the braggart's ‘biggest’ and ‘best,’ whatever it might be, no matter how ‘tiny,’ insignificant or irrelevant it might be: see - https://www.businessinsider.com.au/trump-tower-is-not-as-tall-as-trump-says-2016-10?r=US&IR=T
 







Whether something is 'better' than older times is always difficult to gauge. Crossing from Southampton to New York must have been a slow, wondrous delight for all but those forced to emigrate: but we can certainly claim that the today’s ships are 'bigger.' They are indeed enormous, multi-storied monsters, carrying thousands of passengers in private suites, and the crew to service and entertain these ‘guests.’ These cruise ships arrive at destinations and dump their huge numbers of travellers in places that have similar, sometimes smaller populations, all without any apparent embarrassment or responsibility. The ambition seems to be to have a different intrigue effortlessly appearing at the end of the gangplank every morning. Even ‘sinking’ Venice is not immune from these self-aggrandising visitations that care little for the fragility of history or its future: it is all about the available spectacle - distracting entertainment.




Venice



The desirability of this cheeky ‘occupation’ of place - “We are coming” whatever - has been criticized, doubted, with folk saying that the visitors arrive, look and leave, having a significant impact on the port, while spending very little. A few tourists might go on day trips; some just walk around town; others head for the free Wi-fi of the coffee shops where they can complete their postcards, send off E-mails, and post to their social media accounts in economical comfort. Still others meander around like sheep, looking at another lifestyle and its circumstance as if it might be an exhibition in a gallery, a zoo, or a reconstructed heritage place.* Very little is spent on souvenirs and food. The charity shops are always filled with tourists seeking bargains; ironically, these same people must have spent thousands of dollars on their cruise to just get there. Food is rarely purchased as the cruise ship provides all the food and drink that anyone could want. A quick trip back to the ship will allow the visitors to indulge away from the port being visited.



Typical quayside when the ship can berth

While some still see cruise ships as a boost to tourism and everything ‘good’ that it brings, there are others who are unhappy with this imposition. Lerwick has this experience of huge ships arriving throughout the summer. The town of about 7500 people has over 50 cruise ships calling in over the season, an average of over two a week. Some ships have tourists and crew totalling this population figure and more. The impact on the town is interpreted differently depending on one’s viewpoint. Some see it as devastating, and avoid town on the days when a cruise ship is in. Others see it more hopefully as a source of tourist income, but the statistics always appear to disappoint.




We are ones who keep away on cruise days, but this is not always possible. On one occasion we had to travel south to Hoswick. It turned out to be a cruise-ship day. On the journey back, as we drove over the hill into Lerwick, the astonishing sight of a massive cruise ship looming over the small town came into view. It had to be recorded, such was its amazement.



Cumbernauld Town Centre




Scarborough College

It reminded one of the image of the Cumbernauld town centre, once being likened to a ship on a hill. It was a collage published in AD, (in ‘Archigram’ style), when the town centre was first published as a grand idea. The final development has this stark dominance even today. The idea arose in the era of big structures, like John Andrews’ Scarborough College outside of Toronto– see: https://voussoirs.blogspot.com/2017/10/the-need-for-street-view-in-architecture.html  The concept is no longer fashionable. Indeed, Cumbernauld has been critiqued on social grounds as well as on general planning and functional issues too. It does not appear to be a happy, contented place.









The unusual image of the cruise ship layered over Lerwick looked just like the Cumbernauld collage. The appearance was such that it made front page of The Shetland Times. The photograph says everything about the impact of these vessels on the places they visit, usually places that are small and quaintly ‘interesting.’



It might be the ‘biggest’ and the ‘best ever,’ the ‘most successful,’ but is it desirable? Tourism might be seen as a source of some income, but at what price? - see: http://springbrooklocale.blogspot.com/2012/06/who-or-what-is-tourist.html
One has to seriously ask if the new world of VR headsets might not be developed sufficiently in the future to allow folk to see the world without leaving their living rooms, allowing places of true interest and value not to be defaced and degraded by those who come to see them, killing the very thing that they have come to look at, (c.f. Oscar Wilde).














Those walking around town only see a place with streets filled with thousands of other visitors walking around. It is more than ironic that a ‘purer’ experience would be gained in the virtual reality world where others would not crowd out the experience. The changed situation would not have much of an impact on tourist expenditure, with the place being experienced at a much lesser price, all in the safety and comfort of home.





As we passed through town on our way north, after photographing the outrageous sight before our hilltop eyes, we saw a queue of tourists, four-abreast, about half-a-kilometre long, lined up waiting to go back to the ship that was due to leave that afternoon. The ship was too big to come into the wharf berth, and had to stand off. The flit boats might take one hundred or so every trip. These people were going to have a long wait. What experience of Lerwick must remain with the visitors? Is it just a small, crowded place with poor services? Lerwick is better than what this giant has made of it, but the visitors will never see it.



Quantum physics tells us this: that the position and momentum of a particle can never be measured together. In the same way, the quality of a place can never be gauged by the masses of visitors: there is always interference, a fuzziness created by their being there in disturbing numbers. Once tourists realize this, then we might get more responsible activity on our planet; but alas, tourism is all about entertainment, distractions: see - http://springbrooklocale.blogspot.com/2012/06/who-or-what-is-tourist.html Little thought is ever given to the thing providing the entertainment, its integrity, its necessity, be this a fun fair or Lerwick: both are treated in the same fashion where the importance is the immediacy of the experience – (hence the bold attitude to strolling around*) - that comes tainted, hyped with the expectation of, the anticipation for, the next ‘adventure.’ So the cruise ship moves on after spending maybe eight hours in town, to be ready for the next town on the next day, with endless quantities of the ship’s food, drinks, and entertainment on offer, to be consumed in between.



We need to come to know our world in a completely different way to this superficial wonderment of ME in MY pampered luxury, being taken to photo opportunities day after day as we are fed lollies and treated like royalty. The image of the ship over Lerwick says it all, but we just stand and gaze dumbly, numbed in shock, knowing not what to do but talk or write about it. Where might one start to change things?



Until we realize the folly of our Trumpian era, (see sidebar Clever People Self-Doubt), it seems that nothing will change, as the world and all activity is seen only through reflective, rose-coloured, transformative glasses making everything grand and gloriously special, bespoke, for ME, MY world and MY expectations, in a way that any doubt is bullied out of existence to ensure that MY place stays, and MY opinions dominate everything and anything with an emboldened confidence.





* The Shetland Islands Council issued a warning for drivers in Lerwick to be careful when tourists are in town as they stroll around everywhere completely oblivious of any danger with vehicular traffic. The SIC installed speed bumps and reduced the speed in the centre of town to make the place safer for all. One gets a sense of the presumed dominance of the visitor who feels the right to do whatever as the place is surveilled at his/her leisure. Tourists look at the world as a source of entertainment, for new distractions, always demanding their right to do whatever because, it seems, they have paid for the privilege. The ‘Roman’ idea of respect for things local - ‘When in Rome, . . . ,’ has no place in their attitude. To say that the tourists stray ‘like sheep’ is no exaggeration to anyone who has experienced their arrival. Maybe sheep are more organised.

MORE IMAGES


CUMBERNAULD TOWN CENTRE












SCARBOROUGH COLLEGE








A MATTER OF SCALE








NOTE
12 MARCH 2019
For more on Venice and tourism, see: 

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