We
live in an era when cruising the oceans in luxury liners has again
become desirably fashionable.
The new advertisements are not as stylish as those of earlier times
Every
day one sees advertisements for these ocean journeys, sometimes
offering 'free' flights or drinks, but always promising the sheer height of
affordable, lazy luxury for everyone. Some even boast of passengers
being able to 'live fully,' whatever this might entail. The images
suggest swimming, lazing around with a cocktail, dancing, and dining
in smart outfits, all in glitzy, ‘first class’ surroundings. Is
this really all there is to life and its living ‘fully’?
Ours
is a Trumpian era, (see sidebar: Clever People Self-Doubt),
where everything of value not only has to be glitzy and slick, like
Trump Tower, but also has to be the braggart's ‘biggest’ and
‘best,’ whatever it might be, no matter how ‘tiny,’
insignificant or irrelevant it might be: see - https://www.businessinsider.com.au/trump-tower-is-not-as-tall-as-trump-says-2016-10?r=US&IR=T
Whether
something is 'better' than older times is always difficult to gauge.
Crossing from Southampton to New York must have been a slow, wondrous
delight for all but those forced to emigrate: but we can certainly
claim that the today’s ships are 'bigger.' They are indeed
enormous, multi-storied monsters, carrying thousands of passengers in
private suites, and the crew to service and entertain these ‘guests.’
These cruise ships arrive at destinations and dump their huge numbers
of travellers in places that have similar, sometimes smaller
populations, all without any apparent embarrassment or
responsibility. The ambition seems to be to have a different intrigue effortlessly appearing at the
end of the gangplank every morning. Even
‘sinking’ Venice is not immune from these self-aggrandising
visitations that care little for the fragility of history or its
future: it is all about the available spectacle - distracting entertainment.
Venice
The
desirability of this cheeky ‘occupation’ of place - “We are
coming” whatever - has been criticized, doubted, with folk saying
that the visitors arrive, look and leave, having a significant impact
on the port, while spending very little. A few tourists might go on
day trips; some just walk around town; others head for the free Wi-fi
of the coffee shops where they can complete their postcards, send off
E-mails, and post to their social media accounts in economical
comfort. Still others meander around like sheep, looking at another
lifestyle and its circumstance as if it might be an exhibition in a
gallery, a zoo, or a reconstructed heritage place.* Very little is
spent on souvenirs and food. The charity shops are always filled with
tourists seeking bargains; ironically, these same people must have
spent thousands of dollars on their cruise to just get there. Food is
rarely purchased as the cruise ship provides all the food and drink
that anyone could want. A quick trip back to the ship will allow the
visitors to indulge away from the port being visited.
Typical quayside when the ship can berth
While
some still see cruise ships as a boost to tourism and everything
‘good’ that it brings, there are others who are unhappy with this
imposition. Lerwick has this experience of huge ships arriving
throughout the summer. The town of about 7500 people has over 50
cruise ships calling in over the season, an average of over two a
week. Some ships have tourists and crew totalling this population
figure and more. The impact on the town is interpreted differently
depending on one’s viewpoint. Some see it as devastating, and avoid
town on the days when a cruise ship is in. Others see it more
hopefully as a source of tourist income, but the statistics always
appear to disappoint.
We
are ones who keep away on cruise days, but this is not always
possible. On one occasion we had to travel south to Hoswick. It
turned out to be a cruise-ship day. On the journey back, as we drove
over the hill into Lerwick, the astonishing sight of a massive cruise
ship looming over the small town came into view. It had to be
recorded, such was its amazement.
It
reminded one of the image of the Cumbernauld town centre, once being
likened to a ship on a hill. It was a collage published in AD, (in
‘Archigram’ style), when the town centre was first published as a
grand idea. The final development has this stark dominance even
today. The idea arose in the era of big structures, like John
Andrews’ Scarborough College outside of Toronto– see: https://voussoirs.blogspot.com/2017/10/the-need-for-street-view-in-architecture.html The
concept is no longer fashionable. Indeed, Cumbernauld has been
critiqued on social grounds as well as on general planning and
functional issues too. It does not appear to be a happy, contented
place.
The
unusual image of the cruise ship layered over Lerwick looked just
like the Cumbernauld collage. The appearance was such that it made
front page of The Shetland Times. The photograph says
everything about the impact of these vessels on the places they
visit, usually places that are small and quaintly ‘interesting.’
It
might be the ‘biggest’ and the ‘best ever,’ the ‘most
successful,’ but is it desirable? Tourism might be seen as a source
of some income, but at what price? - see:
http://springbrooklocale.blogspot.com/2012/06/who-or-what-is-tourist.html
One
has to seriously ask if the new world of VR headsets might not be
developed sufficiently in the future to allow folk to see the world
without leaving their living rooms, allowing places of true interest
and value not to be defaced and degraded by those who come to see
them, killing the very thing that they have come to look at, (c.f.
Oscar Wilde).
Those
walking around town only see a place with streets filled with
thousands of other visitors walking around. It is more than ironic
that a ‘purer’ experience would be gained in the virtual reality
world where others would not crowd out the experience. The changed
situation would not have much of an impact on tourist expenditure,
with the place being experienced at a much lesser price, all in the
safety and comfort of home.
As
we passed through town on our way north, after photographing the
outrageous sight before our hilltop eyes, we saw a queue of tourists,
four-abreast, about half-a-kilometre long, lined up waiting to go
back to the ship that was due to leave that afternoon. The ship was
too big to come into the wharf berth, and had to stand off. The flit
boats might take one hundred or so every trip. These people were going to
have a long wait. What experience of Lerwick must remain with the
visitors? Is it just a small, crowded place with poor services?
Lerwick is better than what this giant has made of it, but the
visitors will never see it.
Quantum
physics tells us this: that the position and momentum of a particle
can never be measured together. In the same way, the quality of a
place can never be gauged by the masses of visitors: there is always
interference, a fuzziness created by their being there in disturbing
numbers. Once tourists realize this, then we might get more
responsible activity on our planet; but alas, tourism is all about
entertainment, distractions: see -
http://springbrooklocale.blogspot.com/2012/06/who-or-what-is-tourist.html
Little thought is ever given to the thing providing the
entertainment, its integrity, its necessity, be this a fun fair or
Lerwick: both are treated in the same fashion where the importance is
the immediacy of the experience – (hence the bold attitude to
strolling around*) - that comes tainted, hyped with the expectation
of, the anticipation for, the next ‘adventure.’ So the cruise
ship moves on after spending maybe eight hours in town, to be ready for the next town
on the next day, with endless quantities of the ship’s food,
drinks, and entertainment on offer, to be consumed in between.
We
need to come to know our world in a completely different way to this
superficial wonderment of ME in MY pampered luxury, being taken to
photo opportunities day after day as we are fed lollies and treated
like royalty. The image of the ship over Lerwick says it all, but we
just stand and gaze dumbly, numbed in shock, knowing not what to do
but talk or write about it. Where might one start to change things?
Until
we realize the folly of our Trumpian era, (see sidebar Clever
People Self-Doubt), it seems that nothing will change, as the
world and all activity is seen only through reflective,
rose-coloured, transformative glasses making everything grand and
gloriously special, bespoke, for ME, MY world and MY expectations, in
a way that any doubt is bullied out of existence to ensure that MY
place stays, and MY opinions dominate everything and anything with an
emboldened confidence.
*
The Shetland Islands Council issued a warning for drivers in Lerwick
to be careful when tourists are in town as they stroll around
everywhere completely oblivious of any danger with vehicular traffic.
The SIC installed speed bumps and reduced the speed in the centre of
town to make the place safer for all. One gets a sense of the
presumed dominance of the visitor who feels the right to do whatever
as the place is surveilled at his/her leisure. Tourists look at the
world as a source of entertainment, for new distractions, always
demanding their right to do whatever because, it seems, they have
paid for the privilege. The ‘Roman’ idea of respect for things
local - ‘When in Rome, . . . ,’ has no place in their attitude.
To say that the tourists stray ‘like sheep’ is no exaggeration to
anyone who has experienced their arrival. Maybe sheep are more
organised.
MORE IMAGES
MORE IMAGES
CUMBERNAULD TOWN CENTRE
SCARBOROUGH COLLEGE
A MATTER OF SCALE
NOTE
12 MARCH 2019
For more on Venice and tourism, see:
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