THE SHEPHERD - A BESPOKE LIFE

James Rebanks  The Shepherd’s Life Modern Dispatches from an Ancient Landscape

Doubleday Canada 2015

The book was found lying on the shelf in the local recycling shop: £1:00. W.H.Hudson’s classic text, The Shepherd’s Life, had been picked up from the swap/donation shelves in the local store only a few days previously.# James Hunter’s The Making of the Crofting Community had been read last year; Hunter’s book had been referenced in writings on the clearances. It seemed as though it could be interesting to learn more of the shepherd’s experience: glimpses of this life had been given in Two Hundred Years of Farming in Sutherland The Story of my Family Reay D. G. Clarke, The Islands Book Trust, 2014, which had been loaned by a neighbour. It was in this publication that one learned of the term hefted.+

One uses the word ‘local’ here without exaggeration; the shops are truly local in a specific manner, not in any broader, looser referencing.* This text is being written on Unst, the most northerly island in the Shetland Isles. ‘Local’ refers to the recycling centre, and a general store on the island that is about 12 miles long by 5 miles wide. That books like these end up on the shelves on the island of about 600 people is an indication of what one soon discovers in Shetland: that Shetlanders love their books. The Shetland Times, established in 1872, still publishes not only the weekly paper, but also many quality books on Shetland life, culture, nature, and history: see – https://shop.shetlandtimes.co.uk/collections/books.

The location is important in this context, as the more remote regions of Shetland still farm in much the same manner as the locals do in the Lake District, the region that Rebanks writes about. It is an ancient pattern of land management as Rebanks’ subtitle recognises. One soon learns that Rebanks uses the words farmer and shepherd interchangeably: for him, a shepherd is a farmer who raises sheep: somehow he seems to like the idea that he is a shepherd rather than a farmer. In Shetland, neither term is used: the term crofter covers both.

The traditional shepherd was an individual who managed the sheep. It was a profession that took five years to learn, as Reay D. G. Clarke noted. The shepherd was employed by the farmer, rather than being the farmer. The shepherd who worked for Beatrix Potter was no subservient serf; he was in control of the sheep and demanded respect for his opinions. Rebanks owns the farm on which he raises his sheep in the traditional way, both on the individual farm holding and the surrounding common fells areas.## He points out how the word ‘commoner’ was something to be proud of rather than to be apologetic about: it was not a word that demeaned one; it held much the same sense as peasant in China does. The commoner held rights in the common areas along with others nearby; one had standing; rights.

Rebanks tells us his personal story that is rooted in his love for his farm and its life. The narrative is broken with varied time sequences, yarns, and reminiscences on life, history, poetry, tourism, nature, and philosophy. The surprise is that the author quotes an Australian aboriginal poet, Nunuckal. The reading flows in an easy, informal, chatty way, recording memories, thoughts, observations, and incidents in the same seemingly random manner they occur to one pondering issues and reflecting on a life as things are casually recalled. This seemingly ad hoc sequence is given a broad seasonal chapter structure, Summer, Autumn, Winter, Spring, that is again layered with the schematic chronological sequencing of life’s events; but there is a looseness that overrides these patterns - perhaps as rigour imposed by the editor - that carries the cheeky, reactionary attitude to authority displayed by the young boy at school, and seen in the eyes of the author photographed on the rear cover.

Yet, interleaved with this keenness to brawl, to hold one’s ground, there is the expression of love for the farm, the farming life, and the farming folk. The latter emotion was one that made schooling look like a waste of time; an attitude that later stimulated the desire to prove himself, to overcome the notion that local farmers were ignorant yokels. Rebanks returned to Adult Education, and went on to Oxford University, to become a UNESCO consultant as well as farmer: or should one say a farmer who is a UNESCO consultant, because farming is the core of everything for Rebanks?

Rebanks’ observations of nature and his environment are always poignant; yet he remains critical of others claiming his place, seeing it with the romantic vision framed by Wordsworth and catalogued by Wainright. Rebanks sees the reality of the everyday farming experience as the backbone of the region that has shaped the land over thousands of years. That others might now choose to claim rights over the region and use it for tourism and entertainment while being totally ignorant of the farmers’ experiences, is an enigma to Rebanks that borders on an insult.

For Rebanks, the history of the Lakes District is the story of those who have farmed it. Rebanks’ thoughts on this matter highlight the schism that exists today between city and country life in particular, and man and nature in general. He points out how it was Wordsworth who framed the vision for our view of nature, and the vision for National Parks.

Rebanks’ life spent between his farm and his other work defines the gap that exists in the life of most who dwell in towns and cities; a life that dulls the spirit and turns what Rebanks sees as places made by hard work, into regions for light-hearted entertainment; enjoyable retreats. Rebanks describes his farming life in intimate detail: the sheep, the lambs, the dogs, the family.

It is a life that one can recognise in Shetland, that has the same relationship with private and common land bordered with dykes, managing sheep through the seasons with all the hassles that come with feeding them, treating them, breeding them, clipping them, bringing them in; one can also sense the change Rebanks refers to. While his circumstance is unique, what with the large National Trust Holdings left by Beatrix Potter that came with precise instructions demanding that things stay the same, farming life on Shetland has other pressures as the modern world and its attitudes seep into the everyday.

Shetland is developing green solutions to power that deface the landscape, and is building a space centre that has the muddled expectation that folk will visit both to see launches and to watch birds.^^ One puzzles about the contrast where the blast of one will shatter the peaceful well-being of the other. Just as one hears positive hype from most developers keen to promote their vision, we are told that the impact of the rockets will be minimal. One has to ask: might eyes that seek the entertainment of a rocket launch be interested in the delights of nature while staying nearby at a new 250 person hotel? One has to note that a relatively new 60 room hotel at Brae burnt down and was never replaced – the need had gone; but the otters and the birds remain.

In spite of the creeping change, Shetland farming continues, raising sheep literally at the mercy of auctions and distance as well as weather and the necessities of nature; of life. The ancient way has a momentum that is difficult to dislodge; but the pressure for change is great, especially when the young people are all encouraged to move on; and they do leave Shetland in their droves.

The Shepherd’s Life Modern Dispatches from an Ancient Landscape is a book that one is reluctant to quote from. It holds the quality of a rollicking, grand yarn; it is really something that one needs to read from cover to cover. One could simply say that it is a good read. It certainly highlights our dislocation with nature, and challenges our priorities. It is a book that tells of an attachment to place, one could say the hefting; a subject that should be a core interest to architects. Its weakness is that it is about a very unique part of our world, making it easy to create excuses, explanations about why this life is not available as a strategy for everyone. Might the book have been called A Bespoke Life?

#

The interesting matter here is that Rebanks was inspired to start reading books after he had read Hudson’s book: is this synchronicity or serendipity?

+

Hefting is a traditional way of managing animals on large areas of communal grazing, often on common land. To establish a heft the animals, usually sheep but sometimes cows or ponies, have to be kept in place by constant shepherding as there are no physical boundaries.

https://www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/caringfor/farming/hefted-flocks-and-herds#:~:text=Hefting%20is%20a%20traditional%20way,there%20are%20no%20physical%20boundaries.

*

On time, at Guyra, in New South Wales in Australia, a place known for the quality of the potatoes grown there, I was putting fuel in the car. Sacks of potatoes were stored nearby, for sale. I asked the attendant if the potatoes were local. He said, “No. They come from there,” and he pointed to the other side of the road. This is really taking the meaning of ‘’local’ to its limit. The other extreme is the use of the word on traffic signage that says, ‘Local Traffic Only.’ Just what this means is not known. Does it refer to the Guyra definition, meaning only people in this street can use the street? Or does it refer to the suburb; or to a wider region? Or does it mean any person from anywhere who has come to the area to carry out business with a local? Whatever the intent, the uncertainty makes the signage useless; purely superfluous: no one really knows what it means. Perhaps this allows the local Council to please everyone?

How on earth could anything be enforced here when there is no clear understanding of the meaning? It is much like the signs that declare ‘Wildlife’; or ‘Koalas.’ What might one be supposed to do when the speed limit remains unaltered, and there is no other deterrents to manage the interaction between vehicles and native animals?

Again, when passing building sites, one frequently reads warning signs about the equipment being used: ‘Post-tensioning taking place’; and ‘Power fasteners being used.’ What should one do? Walk faster? Crawl by? Be ready to dodge some flying item? The sign is of use only to the contractor who seems to be seeking ways to avoid blame and responsibility.

##

A fell (from Old Norse fell, fjall, "mountain") is a high and barren landscape feature, such as a mountain or moor-covered hill. The term is most often employed in Fennoscandia, Iceland, the Isle of Man, parts of northern England, and Scotland.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fell#:~:text=A%20fell%20(from%20Old%20Norse,of%20northern%20England%2C%20and%20Scotland.

NOTE:

Rebanks provides his own blurb on the back cover of the book: This is a book about a very deep-rooted attachment to place. It is a book I have wanted to write my whole life. I love this valley and its ancient way of life, and I want to help you see and know our world. This is the story of my growing up in this landscape, the people around me, our working lives, on the farms and fells. It is the untold story of the Lake District, of a people who exist and endure out of sight in the midst of the most iconic literary landscape in the world.

NOTE

It is easy to see Rebanks’ inspiration in Hudson: W.H.Hudson The Illustrated Shepherd’s Life Guild Publishing London 1987 (Book Club Associates):

p.15
I wished we had a more rational system of education for the agricultural districts, one which would not keep the children shut up in a room during all the best hours of the day, when to be out of doors, seeing, hearing, and doing, would fit them so much better for the life-work before them.

p. 29

But I can imagine that when we have a wiser, better system of education in the villages, in which books will not be everything, and to be shut up six or seven hours every day to prevent the children from learning the things that matter most . . .

^^

The Shetland Times 30th June 23:

High hopes hotel plans will take off (Why do journalists love puns?)

A hotel for guests who want to watch rare birds or rocket launches is hoped to attract thousands of space tourists to Unst.

The artist's impression shows nothing of the infrastructure that is already filling up the pristine heritage site.

. . .

Comment:

As if the blast from five launching pads firing rockets up to 35metres long would not deter the rare birds from coming anywhere near this centre, or the island. One can only be amazed at how cynical the search for the promotion of profit is; it will say and do anything. Note how the report in the paper suggests that the space centre is far bigger than was ever suggested. One wonders what has been approved by council. Is it just a matter of letting the centre get built anyhow, whatever? Dare one suppose that if the hotel is made out of small steel sections and polystyrene, it can easily burn down when it is of no further use?

The Moorfield Hotel at Brae in Shetland, constructed in 2013, was lost to fire in 2020: see - https://www.urbanrealm.com/buildings/866/The_Moorfield_Hotel.html#:~:text=The%20modules%20were%20then%20shipped,fully%20completed%20in%20July%202013

4 Dec 24

NOTE

The surprise with this hotel fire was not only how quickly it burned down, but also how completely. Building regulations use general principles as a guide to the management of fire, with separation being one core factor. The idea is that the spread of the fire is controlled to specific zones so as to avoid any catastrophic outcome. One experiences this with the common nuisance in hotel corridors that have ‘KEEP CLOSED’ fire doors dividing up the length of the building. These become a repeated challenge as one attempts to move into/ out of one’s room with the usual heavy luggage. The passage becomes an awkward challenge, all for fire safety. One supposes that this Shetland hotel had appropriate fire separation, area to area; floor to floor; but it burned down completely. Even the fire stairs appear to have burned. What happened?

The other principle in fire regulations is that of precedent: learning from previous disasters. The Grenfell Tower is one other recent fire that has alerted regulators to problems that need attention. One can only hope that this event at Brae has been carefully reviewed so that regulations might be amended to ensure that fire is better managed in the future.