One had to go to
Waterford, the legendary home of reputedly the world's best crystal
glass. Such is its iconic standing, the name refers first to the
crystalware rather than to the city in Ireland, the fifth most
populous and the oldest. Driving into town was a simple pleasure:
easy, straightforward, with no confusing detours, unexpected one-way
streets or other unusual civic redirections. The place could be read
as a typical waterfront settlement: water, wharf, street, shops, with
the main street tucked in behind, and with housing beyond, just like
Lerwick in the Shetland Islands. It was a simple, transparent pattern
established by the ordinary growth of everyday, working riverside
necessity over time. River trade starts and develops; warehouses are
built; shops and traders move in to service the needs of the
visitors; people gather nearby to share in the spoils or to get work,
both the wealthy and those who act for them in a hierarchy of tasks.
Time demands growth as business and trade increases, so a new layer
of more sophisticated commerce is developed behind the ordinary
working riverfront wharves, street, shops, warehouses and pubs. The
High Street is formalised away from the 'industrial' waterside
activity of the 'workers'; palaces and cathedrals get built too as
wealth increases and classes divide more clearly: greater numbers of
people are attracted to this hubbub of activity, so more housing is
erected around the core of the new commercial and civic expansion. In
this way Waterford has developed from a rudimentary settlement, to a
town, to the small city we know today. It is a pattern seen repeated
time and time again in waterfront trading locations across the world.
Waterford
Old Lerwick town where the rule was that all buildings had to be end on to the harbour
Old Lerwick showing the harbour settlement and the fort
Lerwick today
The old wharf areas now service the High Street and provide a river promenade for the city
On the first
sighting, Waterford presented as a colourfully patched cluster of
buildings stretched along a river and dominated by the cathedral
spire. We had guessed the layout to be typically traditional, though
perhaps a little more complex than a smaller town might be. We drove
across the bridge and turned left into the area that we thought might
be close to the city centre, parked at the wharf, and walked. We
could not have selected a better spot if we had known the place
intimately and pre-planned our stopover. The pocket tourist map had
been perused prior to arrival, but it had very little useful detail
that could inform. The bold, schematic diagram of the city seemed
to play a secondary role to the more important surplus of surrounding
advertisements. Any specific, detailed locational information about a
'place of interest' related to the advertisements. The icon that had
been noticed in the spaghetti maze of thick red lines that were
illustrated wildly out of scale, as if to fill in the gaps and avoid
any commitment to detail, was the zone named the 'Viking Triangle.'
It seemed an interesting, certainly memorable notion that apparently
identified an historic part of town shaped by the acute turn in the
main road running through Waterford. The 'triangle' title resonated
with the haunting mystery of places like the Bermuda triangle.
The Viking Triangle dominates the plan of the city
Triangles are
important as symbols. Physically they are an inherently stable
arrangement, like the tetrahedron, a solid with four isosceles
triangle faces, and three-legged furniture. Why do cafes still use
four-legged tables? Owners should all be told that if they insist on
four feet, then only one has to be adjustable: three will always find
stability. Triangles stand out in our rectilinear world. They are
unique in their compactness, their completeness, and are
eye-catching. Warning signs are triangular: the 'GIVE WAY' sign is
shaped in this manner. The triangle was used successfully as the
shape of the 'NO DAMS' graphic sticker in Tasmania years ago to
protest against the damming of the Franklin River; and now it is
being used again to try to stop the coal seam gas extraction on farm
lands: 'LOCK THE GATE.' On the map, the patterns were such that one
could instinctively sense the geographic location of the Waterford
triangle in relation to the broader organisation of places in the
city. The 'Viking Triangle' had been immediately noted, remembered as
a positional reference in the east near the bend in the river. Its
positioning was readily recalled: it is 'there,' in that direction –
one knew and could nod or point to it. Once identified, the tower
became the marker. It was a brilliant promotion, a natural anchor, a
pivot point for Waterford that held inherent sense as well as an
impressive marketing identity because the zone was indeed uniquely,
natively triangular, specifically located as an arrowhead return in
the main street layout; and the area did contain some of the oldest
structures in town: the cathedral; the museum; the Bishops Palace;
the tower that one soon learned was called Reginald's Tower, all in
an area that was once enclosed by a 1000 year old Viking wall.
Adjacent to this landmark shape on the map was a large white asterisk
that identified the position of Waterford Crystal, statistically
Ireland's most popular tourist destination: number '1' on the list of
tourist attractions being promoted.
Waterford pivots on Reginald's Tower in the Viking Triangle
The busy waterfront
street was crossed, and we headed for what we thought must be the
main, the high street, up a lane typically at right angles to and
rising from the water's edge. The use of the linear water frontage of
the town, the old wharves, for parking worked nicely, as it
distributed the density vehicles evenly along the accessible length
of the commercial core of the town while still allowing easy
pedestrian access for folk to enjoy the pleasant promenade along the
River Suir. It seemed that the water had lost its transport and trade
uses that must have been significant in other eras. Now it appeared
to be a purely recreational part of the cityscape. Relics of heavy
equipment from other times littered the car parking areas. On the
other side of the road, the elevations of the waterfront shops and
pubs were typical of the frontages of old town, traditional street
design. The facades of the shopfronts were single-storied with the
signs above aligning as a strip of panels forming the fascia of the
street, capping the glass display windows. Usually there was a centre
door recess with patterned patchwork tiling for each premises, unless
the shop had been refurbished. The glazing of the shop frequently
stood slightly proud of the main wall of the apartment dwellings or
offices above. The display windows were topped by the signs that were
completed with sculptured detailing to articulate edges, corners and
ends. The arrangement was very satisfactory. It highlighted the
street, shaped its presence, dressed it as it were: addressed it. The
concept established the scale and identity of the street modestly,
without any of the competitive fanfare one might see in newer
business districts, a clutter best illustrated in the extreme by the
street signs of Hong Kong.
We soon found
ourselves in the busy commercial street that was lined both sides
with more of the typical, coloured shop facades. It was not only the
shop fronts that attracted, but their junctions, the zones between
the shops. These ad hoc collisions of forms, alignments, services and
colours caught the eye and urged the camera to frame them, to compose
these random juxtapositions of colliding patterned pieces into images
that incorporated a very pretty interplay of colours and graphics,
all conforming to the strict formula of shopfront detailing
requirements. There had to be rules to get such controlled
co-operation. Good rules that are respected and can be enforced give
good town planning outcomes like this, and create admirable places:
see -
http://voussoirs.blogspot.com.au/2012/08/town-planning-concerns.html
The problem Australian cities have is that their town plans are left
open to interpretation, haggling and deals that generate the
unpredictability of chaos and disorder. One recent example on the
Gold Coast in Queensland had the mayor announcing the approval of a
'supertower' without any Councillor knowing, not even the Chairman of
the Planning Committee: see -
http://voussoirs.blogspot.com.au/2015/10/gold-ghost-city-planning.html
Waterford
These shop frontages
lined a stone street paved with neatly detailed flagstones and
dressed stone spoon drains, and where necessary, clever concealed
strip drains that collected water into grated gullies. It was a
pleasure to see so much precise attention being given to the public
pavement that, in Australia, certainly in Brisbane, is more usually
black bitumen or cheap concrete pavers that heave and crack within a
few years with heat and wear-and-tear, with no one caring at all for
this crude civic mess that becomes a greater shambles with random
repairs. Unfortunately, the concrete pavers have allowed town
designers to 'creatively' use different colours. Alarmingly, this has
resulted in a white dotted centre line on the footpath, making it a
narrow mock street where passing 'peds' appear to be directed to keep
left and right, as traffic flows are. Alternatively, some more
'enterprising' designers try dividing the footpath into panels using
what are perceived to be clever, arty, repetitive, rectangular
patterns with contrasting frames that bear no relationship at all to
any other piece of street paraphernalia, furniture or facade
detailing that is usually just as randomly ad hoc, and as carelessly
self-interested as the footpath patterning itself. This is Australian
town detailing as it really is, not as the city might like to promote
it. There is little to be proud of. It is only occasionally that one
can find a beautifully detailed public space; these are few, and far
between: parts of Sydney, Melbourne and Hobart come to mind.
So Waterford was a
revelation to admire. That so much effort, care, thought and money
might go into detailing a pedestrian space is surprising to one used
too cheap and lazy neglect, where 'near enough' is 'good enough'!
Brisbane needs to do much better, but local Councils have Councillors
who generally hold architects and designers in contempt, seeing them
as a waste of time and money. Australia has many TV home renovation
shows that 'prove' to everyone that the ordinary person can do
anything better than a professional, so why bother with them?
Brisbane does not even have a city architect. The State Government is
little better. It has a government architect, but this role is more
ceremonial and political than anything else. The position holds no
power or authority to ensure quality outcomes on any level, not even
by way of example. This is the Australian way: the anti-intellectual
attitude that abhors everything that is good design, rooting its
interests in beer and sport: the 'g'day mate' ethic; 'she'll be
right.' After the recent NFL final, (rugby league football), nearly
all of the evening news was football. The 'news' was endless replays
and hagiographical interviews asking “How did it feel?” time and
time again, with a doting reporter pleased with herself that she has
been given the task of being close to the sweating, breathless body
of her hero. This is our national broadcaster – the ABC!#
One likes to meander
up a high street not to do any shopping, or browsing of shop
contents, but just to stroll nonchalantly, “Doing Nothing,” as
Christopher told Pooh Bear. (Pooh asked, “How do you do Nothing?”
“ . . you go and do it,”+ was Christopher Robin's response.) It
is the feeling of place that is best revealed here in the central
strip of town where public activity is concentrated in the
aggregation of commerce. This experience becomes the base reference
for the understanding of a town or village, a city too, as one's
explorations stretch out to the edges of the town centre, and further
into the sprawling fringes of the town/city itself that deteriorate
in quality, as all places seem to do today. Just why the planning
rigour seen in the centre of town is not able to be implemented on
its outskirts is an enigma. Is it because planners have no models for
the future; no visions? - see:
http://voussoirs.blogspot.com.au/2013/05/town-planning-visions.html
Waterford's 'universal' shopping mall
We did need to shop
at Waterford for a couple essentials: a new camera battery and a
conversion plug for battery charging. Batteries usually fail at the
most inconvenient of times, and the complications of plug conversions
easily cause confusion - what goes where, how, when, into what, and
in which order is easily muddled? So our wanderings were a matter of
both shopping and looking, seeing, sensing and feeling. Camera shops
appear to have disappeared these days when every mobile phone is also
a camera that can match the performance of most quality
single-purpose photographic devices, or so we are led to believe.
Perhaps it is just convenience that makes them 'better'? After a
search and some questions, with a few false leads, the items were
found. We then detoured off through the typical shopping centre
complex that bigger towns and cities think they need, back to the
street. These 'malled' (mauled) spaces really are all the
same, as the cliché
goes. We walked out of the centre into the 'Viking Triangle,' to the
cathedral, the museum, the Bishop's Palace and the tower. We knew we
were there by remembering the diagram on the plan and its place in
the town. The zone held a density of interesting buildings. We
strolled into the museum, a new award-winning building, and browsed.
It was too late in the day to spend time there, so we decided to
return the next morning. We looked around the shop at the usual
tourist kitsch and some nice local craft work.
Medieval Museum foyer/entrance
There was a glass
worker at his workstation in the foyer, an engraver. His work was on
exhibition, for sale. It looked as though he had set up for a
temporary display. He said that he didn't mind folk looking as he
carried on with his detailed work, so I watched, and asked. It was a
delicate process that he said was based somewhat on guesswork. I had
asked about this because I couldn't understand how his markings could
be seen under the flush of opaque grinding fluid. One might better
explain this as a feeling for line, texture and glass, as the
exercise of skill, rather than anything randomly hopeful and ad hoc,
such was his expertise and experience. As we walked out of the
museum, we found ourselves following an old wall to new stairs that
wrapped down and through an old arched opening in the stacked stones.
The stairway, obviously only recently constructed, was nicely
integrated into the old infrastructure, as Scarpa might have done it
in his Castelvehiccio Museum with the precise articulation of
separation. It was indeed admirable work: subtle, unpretentious,
careful and modest, as well as being respectful and effectively
efficient. It led us to a lower street level into another public
place.
New museum stair in old wall
As the space in font
if the Bishops Palace opened up, the slick presence of Waterford
Crystal opposite became evident by way of stark contrast with the
character of the 'Viking Triangle,' historic Waterford. A smart,
glistening glass box building that was obviously the shop display,
stood dominant beside a more modest adjacent enclosure - maybe the
workshop? This was the core of Waterford the city, its international
reputation, indeed, its name. Of course, the building had to be
glass. We would go there tomorrow if we had time. Meanwhile, we
needed to get accommodation for the night. We thought of walking to a
hotel, but tired bodies and aching legs and the uncertainty of scaled
distance prevailed. Our map was more a rough sketch than anything
else: could it be relied upon? We returned to the car and drove,
hoping that our feeling for place would reveal a hotel; but no. We
turned into what was found to be a dead end street, so we paused,
then parked. The nearby corner hotel was chosen to ask about
accommodation. “No, we have none. There is a big hotel in town.”
“Thanks” - but no thanks. We had seen this hotel on our journey
to this lane. It was very classy, posh and pretentious, complete with
a red carpet. It was not for us. We walked off away from the hotel,
only to be surprised by the barman who intercepted us as we passed
the secondary service door. He had forgotten that there was a hotel
just up the road. “Thanks.” We knew immediately on entering this
corner pub that it had no accommodation. Externally it appeared to be
a two storey building, and it was; but the space around the central
island bar was double-height with a surrounding mezzanine floor
detailed as an open gallery. There were no upper rooms. It was an
impressive interior, a grand relic of another era when such gestures
were never seen as 'just a waste of space and money' as they are
today.
The Three Shippes Inn with double height bar space
Only one hundred
metres away was the hotel that we were seeking. We booked in, and
returned to the corner pub for a “Thank you” Guinness. The next
morning we rose early, had breakfast, checked out and drove into an
empty Waterford Saturday morning. The streets were bare. It seemed
nothing opened until 10am, not even the museum. As we strolled away
from the 'CLOSED' sign, we noticed that the Waterford Crystal centre
was opened. We sauntered across the vacant road, entered, and, as we
approached the counter, were asked if we might be interested in a
tour of the workshop - to leave in ten minutes. “OK. Why not?” We
had time.
We browsed the
smart, glistening display of crystal as we meandered around in the
glare of slick, sharp, silver light sparkling against matt black
backgrounds. The place seemed to be in need of somebody skilled in
design, as kitsch piece after kitsch piece of crystal was passed with
an awkward cringe. Why did people make such gawky, weird things?
Sadly they must sell. Soon the announcement was made - the tour was
ready to go: we had to return to the desk. Having prepared ourselves
for the typical bus-load-of-tourists crowd, we were surprised when no
one arrived apart from the tour guide: we were the only ones on this
tour. Ah, it was good to be free of the stress of clichè
performances and questions. On tours like this there always seems to
be one loud mouth, one know-all, and one fool who asks the question
that has just been answered. We were to be free of this effort to be
polite, tolerant. The guide introduced himself, Fergus, and likewise
seemed pleased with his more personal task. He chatted on with his
standard introduction, its less formal form, adding stories and
happily responding to questions that interrupted his flow. I asked if
any crystal was made in Ireland as I had read that Waterford had
closed down its production in Ireland in 2013 He said that most of
the crystal was now made in eastern Europe, with about 35 percent
being made here. He said that he was once a glass cutter, one of over
three thousand workers at Waterford Crystal who lost their jobs. His
seemed a sad task: the once proud, skilled cutter was now the tour
guide. We moved off from the transparent, architectural display box
building and entered a dim glazed octagonal space that was
immediately transformed from a rather grim dark void with the sudden
startling appearance of bright, flashing lights and a few large
images of cut crystal glass all accompanied with loud noises, that
could at best be called 'fanfare' music. It all looked strangely
over-dramatic, but meaningless. What was it supposed go be? Was it a
'teaser'? After a few minutes of exposure to the hype of this
fireworks-like display, the guide materialised from a secret glass
panel, as if from Aladdin’s lamp, and we moved into the factory. It
seemed as though we had been successfully indoctrinated.
The factory appeared
more like a performance museum than a factory. It was a defined
linear walkway that passed the mould making area – tiny; the glass
blowers – three; the finishers – one; the cutters – six; the
specialist designer – one; the apprentice - one lady; and the
workstation of a fine decorator, detailer – one, not there today.
This was the production line of Waterford in Ireland making 50,000
pieces a year? It seemed that all of the pieces lying around looking
like work in progress were permanent exhibits that just stayed there
for decorative tourism purposes. Cynically, one guessed that the
cutters only performed when a group was arriving, and passing by, as
they were all seen stopping work as we left the work area. It was sad
to think that three thousand had become twenty. This was nothing like
a production line that could produce tens of thousands of pieces of
specialist crystal. The lady at the entrance desk said that 50,000
pieces were made in Ireland; Fergus had said 35% of all Waterford
pieces. Mmm: at 300 work days a year, (we were there on a Saturday),
that is about 165 pieces produced every day, complete: that is, with
an eight hour day, about 20 pieces an hour have to be finished, every
hour of every day; that is about three minutes a piece. The
quantities of crystal said to be made at Waterford sounded highly
unlikely. The blowers might be able to make a piece very three
minutes, but the marking and cutting and finishing all have to work
with a concurrent three minute schedule for every piece in order to
achieve the 50,000 per annum: yes, extremely improbable.
Still, in spite of
the charade, it was interesting to see the process, the workers, the
remnants of the specialist skills that created the name 'Waterford'
as the word for quality crystal; some workers have been there for
over forty years. It was impressive to see the tasks being performed,
and to have had the whole process explained personally by one who was
once an intimate part of the production line. Along the way on the
stroll through the factory, the guide paused to show us the drawings
that were prepared for the planned pieces of crystal, complete with
the patterns; and he explained the system for the marking out of the
patterns to be cut on the blown blanks. What looked intuitive was
not. CAD drawings defined each piece and every mark precisely. The
drawings had every dimension for the markers identified in a library
of reverence books that itemised the exact specifications, right down
to the thicknesses of the glass. Apparently the cutters relied on the
skill of the glass blowers to provide the specified requirements. We
were shown these documents. It was extremely interesting, but
somewhat concerning. Once defined in CAD, any work could be completed
by a robot. Indeed, one robot was on display cutting a large vase.
There must be more. This factory was merely a museum piece, an
anachronism, a relic of the past times when manual labour and trained
specialists produced everything crystal in Waterford. Those were the
days! Did the Waterford Council pay to keep this pantomime going in
order to perpetuate the Waterford Crystal name? It seemed likely, as
Waterford Crystal topped every tourist guide in Ireland. Could
Waterford afford to lose this connection when it really had? What
might Waterford become without the crystal?
It was wonderful to
have the process revealed, even if only schematically,
diagrammatically. There was real skill here, best revealed in the
one-off design trophies. Those decorative presentation pieces
designed specifically for: cricket - the Ashes; the Pope; Obama;
golf; tennis; etc., were all on display. Here, in these pieces,
astonishing lettering and other engraving bewildered the eye. This
work was difficult enough to achieve with a pen on paper, let alone
an engraver working on crystal glass. It looked like a stencil
etching; we were assured that it was not. This skilled worker was
once just one of thousands of artisans; but where were the others
now, other than Fergus? What skills have been lost? The guide opened
a door. Surprisingly, the exit from the 'factory' space led us back
directly into the gleam of the displays of the brightly lit shop, as
all tours, museums and art galleries do these days. Fergus walked
across to a cupboard in the display area, opened it surreptitiously -
he was not supposed to get involved in sales - and revealed the
packaging of the pieces. 'Made in Slovenia' – frequent; 'Made in
Germany' - less frequent; 'Made in Ireland' – very, very
infrequent.
Waterford - Made in Poland
Waterford - Made in Ireland
Waterford - Made in ?
3,000 workers lost their jobs
So here we had the
history of skilled production being promoted as apparently being
'Made in Waterford, Ireland' when the products were mostly being made
somewhere else. We were told that only one particular small array of
shelves in the large showroom had products that were made in Ireland
at Waterford. This was not made clear to the buyers. It was all
almost a hoax; tricky at the very least: a pretence. The guide told
us that the same group of private equity bankers had also purchased
the famed Stuart and Edinburgh Crystal factories and had closed them
down, intent only on using their names as 'quality' brands, just as
they have done with Waterford: but here at Waterford they maintained
a brazen and somewhat misleading guise with a make-believe
re-enactment of the old factory process for tourism purposes.
It is a fakery that
the modern era seems happy to indulge in without comment or
complaint. Food, clothing, whiskey, gin,## even Shetland wool knits
are all made elsewhere, but are promoted as quality 'original' items
branded with the 'name' to attract an admirable price and profit. Who
cares about provenance? Is it like a Gehry piece where it seems that
only appearance is significant, nothing else? Our architecture seems
to have adjusted to this lack of coherence and integrity too. It
doesn't matter what is built with what, where, for what function,
only the appearance is important. Nothing to do with history,
context, craft, or rigour appears to be significant.
'Waterford crystal': 'House of Waterford' but no mention of actual place of manufacture
The Waterford
experience highlights the 'faux' quality of things. Little wonder
that the industry of openly selling fakes is booming because,
ironically, these declared tricksters are possibly more moral than
the so-called expensively branded 'originals' that really are
something else - pretend originals. What might the Waterford bankers
do with the 'Wedgewood' brand they had purchased? Did all of this
renaming pretence start with the sale of Singer, a step that used the
iconic quality brand, that once prided itself on marking every piece
and part SIMANCO, on just about everything and anything cheap and
plastic made anywhere? The only concern was the marketing image, not
the quality or provenance.
One has to ask:
would anyone making fakes, e.g. something as complex as pretend,
quality designer watches, maybe a Patek Philippe or a Hermes, really
set up a factory just for this specific reproduction among the many
others available, just to make a ninety dollar tome that mimics the
5000 dollar 'original'? The proposition is that the fakes are really
made in the same factory as the originals; e.g. maybe Hermes
handbags, sunglasses, and watches, apparently the most popular fancy
fakes, all come from the same place as the 'originals'? The world is
cynical enough to do this in order to capture every aspect of the
market, as profit is everything. Indeed, why not make the 'fakes'
when the 'original' is faked too? Are we in an era of 'faked' fakes
and 'original' fakes? Everything, it seems, is not as it appears to
be, just because bankers want to maximise profits. Only appearance is
critical, never any depth, or substance, or coherence: merely flighty
representations, glimpses of a pretence, are the only critical thing,
in much the same manner as it is more important to have a 'Gehry' or
an 'Hadid'-branded building than any basic, caring, contextual
structure. 'I am only what I appear too be' is apparently all that
matters. Whether I am true to myself in what I pretend to be, seems
to matter not al all. This is the brave new world of 'let's pretend.'
We walked out of the
Waterford building quite pleased that we had visited, but somewhat
depressed about the marketing strategy that appeared to sum up the
state of affairs of this world. The museum was open now, so we
returned. A tour was starting; we agreed to join it. This time we
were not so lucky. There were six others wanting the tour as well;
yes, the cliché group members were all there. The guide was a chirpy
performer who loved the drama of his own presentation that hyped
history into new extremes of dramatic events and significance, all to
highlight Waterford and its grand past. He tried to re-enact, to
re-invigorate the 'excitement' of those times. The building itself
was interesting. Rather cleverly, it was constructed over a medieval
basement: a dining room and a wine cellar. It was from here that the
old wall extended out into the forecourt. Moving from the basement up
through the building, one could see the careful detailing and the
beautiful insitu concrete work. It was indeed splendid, of an
extremely high standard of care and detail. The plan was simple, but
the experience of space complex. The exhibits were well presented and
interesting. It was all about Waterford in the medieval times. The
surprise was that wine held such an important role in the intriguing
peer games of the times. Wine was imported from France and Spain.
Rights to import established rights to tax, and shrewdly, to take tax
as wine, to use personally and to sell. It was a well-managed trade.
The building deserved its award.
Back in the foyer
after the tour, the glass engraver was still working on the piece he
had shown me yesterday. Overnight I had read that the museum foyer
was his studio, an odd location for work that required such
concentration. Did he want to stay close to his previous place of
employment, Waterford Crystal? I mentioned too him that Fergus, the
tour guide, had said that he had worked on his line, and that Fergus
had commented on his unique talents and craft. Sadly the engraver
looked up and asked, “Did he show you my piece?" “Yes, he
did.” He added that it was the best work that he had done, a
complex engraving of figures that was subtle and skilfully dramatic.
He smiled proudly, adding, "There used to be 3200 workers at
Waterford Crystal; over 3000 skilled in the production of the world's
best crystal were sacked” - all in the cause of pure profit. 'For
what might it profit a man' came to mind. After commenting on how
terrible this action had been, I left the engraver to continue his
work. One could only admire the way he was able to concentrate on
such fine, demanding work in a public place while constantly being
annoyed, disrupted and distracted by inquisitive tourists like me. It
was the traditional craftsman who described his method of work as:
“Having concentrated, I set to work.” How could this craftsman
concentrate here?
Bishop's Palace
Crustal table setting, Bishop's Palace
There are no markings on these old pieces
On leaving the
building, the fine curves of the sandstone facade were admired as we
moved off to the Bishops Palace. This historic residence was a
stunning home full of amazing things; but how did the rest of the
population live? One pondered the possibility of there being hovels
surrounding this indulgence of a life that soaked up the wine under
the pretence that all the local waters were polluted. What an excuse
to drink wine! Did those in the hovels drink the water? Who cared?
When the Tibetan monks fled Tibet in the 1950s, they had to drink
beer in one Indian village because the local water was polluted. The
senior monk was keen to keep the group moving in case the monks
developed a taste for beer. There seemed to be no problem with the
taste for wine in Waterford.
We had to leave
Waterford if we were to get back to Dublin on time in a few days'
time, and before we again only travelled a few kilometres in the day.
Distance is no marker of progress or of interest, but we had to reach
Cork that afternoon to be back on schedule.
Blarney village
Well, the name is
romantically attractive: Cork, a real Corker! - but it turned out to
be a very unattractive place, suffering all of the shambles that
large cities seem to generate - busy streets; confusing one-way
systems; no parking anywhere; no hotel rooms available anywhere. This
must have been 'mad Saturday' with everyone arriving at the busy bus
station for the bucks booze-ups and hens parties that seem to demand
the delights of big cities to indulge this stupidity. So without
wasting more time persevering with the city late on this hectic
Saturday afternoon, we drove out to Blarney, to a surplus of
accommodation, and enjoyed an evening in the pleasant hubbub of the
small country pub. Cork would be forgotten: big cities are just big
places with familiar faces. They rely on their own propaganda for
their smart promotion. They are fakes just like the crystal; the
world is full of them. It is in the big cities and at airports'
no-man's-land zones that the big brands can best perform their
tricks, their illusions of grandeur and purpose, because these are
matched by cities themselves – and airports too. Little wonder that
the city is the host of bucks booze-ups and hens parties. It is in
the smaller things and places that life is more honest and direct,
not a charade. We need to learn this in architecture: if we get the
little, subtle things right, then the larger things might hold
greater depth and significance by concentrating on people and
provenance. We are at the risk of ignoring the importance of the
ordinary, everyday simple things and the qualities they stand for.
Blarney green
Walt Disney Concert Hall
Gehry has almost
acknowledged this neglect with his reported comment on the leaks at
the Walt Disney Concert Hall: “You expect this in a complex building.”
The unique appearance is the critical thing in this 'art'. Well, try
telling that to an astronaut living in the space capsule, or a
submariner in a 'complex' submarine. Architects need much more
rigour. The dismissive arrogance is astonishing, but we sit back and
cower at the power of statements like this without any bleating or
crying out, crying or cringing while the genius smirks and the media
reports support the smugness uncritically.* In the same manner, the
Waterford bankers are allowed to fudge their way to profit without
one complaint or any criticism from anyone in the media about the
origin of the pieces marked 'Waterford.' The specific, clear
declaration on each piece of crystal is 'Waterford', the brand, not
where it is made; yet the distinction is never made clear unless one
studies the packaging. It is interesting to note that the early
pieces of crystal were never marked 'Waterford.' 'Fake is great'
appears to be the catchphrase of this era that appears to only see
clever business skills in such conniving. It seems that the
declaration of origin on a 'Waterford' item is kept only for the
disposable box. This is so apparently because the USA, and perhaps
others too, demand such identification somewhere. It could be
possible that the bankers might choose to have no such declaration
anywhere other than the ambiguous 'Waterford' if they could get away
with it. 'Getting away with as much as possible' seems to be the
strategy of all businesses today.
Make a fake; make it
look good; brand it; sell it as an 'original': make a fake a fake;
sell it as a fake: make architecture as unique and as special as
possible so that everyone will want it; brand it, promote it, just
like a fake handbag or watch – for its looks. One does indeed get
a, e.g., 'Gehry' provenance, but it is work concerned with appearance
alone, little more, just like the crystal marked 'Waterford' made
elsewhere, anywhere, and presented in a way that makes it appear to
have Waterford quality. Video footage of Mr. Gehry working in his
office with his staff shows him assessing model variations by their
appearance; how he might like to see things happen. Forms are shaped
by the eye, rarely by functions or necessity: indeed, the necessity,
it seems, is to make something different, almost irrespective of what
it is being formed for. Gehry has designed a bag for Louis Vuitton, a
“Twisted Box.” Of course it has to be distorted to be
Gehry-different! Has this been faked yet? Who makes the fakes? Does
it matter?
The question is:
what is a life lived as fakes, as the 'Let's pretend' world of
promoted appearances that disguise provenance and purpose? What is
art lived as as a fake, self-interested, Gehry-like; concerned only
with the way things are seen and their stark differences to attract,
to alienate and demarcate with claims of genius in the way Waterford
hopes to differentiate its piece from all others, even if the others
are from the same source? Gehry feels free to criticise most other
works of architecture as 'rubbish' because they are not like his.*
Does he realise this may be a matter of money, available budgets, as
well as intent – to hype ME, to brand smartly? What is art lived as
an enrichment, as truth? Will we ever know when 'even the facts don't
tell the truth' (Paul Auster)? But why go for fakes and pretence when
life can be enhanced with other intrigues, holding richer depth
rather than the skin of pretend appearances for their own sake; with
art/architecture seeking integrity, coherence, with a subtle
supporting fabric of expression that can take steps towards aiding
understanding, an understanding of those perplexing complex questions
of existence, probing them: what is man; what is life; what is
feeling? why? how? - all in a supportive resonance of meaning?
The search can still
take itself seriously while always realising that an answer is no
answer: 'If you find the Buddha on the way, kill him.' If art is not
prepared to participate in life in a manner different to the pretend
world of how things might be preferred to appear, to look in a
particular manner for a particular, personal or profitable reason,
what is it for - merely entertainment, pretty display; merely an
economic interest: merely for 'MY' expression irrespective of anyone
else: irrelevant? Is this art. Tradition says 'No.' We need an art
that can ennoble; and an architecture too. We need an enriching art
that can uplift the spirit, confirm it, rather than opening up the
possibility of what one might have committed to being revealed as a
fraud. We do need to know the provenance, the integrity of our
architecture, to be able to trust it if it is to hold meaning beyond
appearances in any depth. Provenance can have personal implications
too. What must I do? Responsibility is involved – the ability to
respond; the ability to care about the wholeness of place, space,
form and detail in its making for people. Branding for business and
promotional purposes has no role here. It should have no role in the
world of crystal either unless we are happy to exist in the
ambivalent, theatrical world of the trickster, never knowing what is
what, or ever caring about the vacancy of life in the game of mere appearances.
#”How does it
feel?” seems to be the classic ABC question both on TV and radio.
Fran Kelly, the host on RN, The Breakfast Show, 19th
October 2015 at 7:15am^ asked the question again in another context.
When will we start getting more rigorous journalism instead of this
trite, cliché nonsense?
^On time: 7:15am was
Brisbane time – this was radio on the Internet. The ABC refuses to
organise its time calls for anything but its own time zone in Sydney.
The other day, in one breath, we got: “This ABC RN across Australia
it is 7:30.” No, it might be in Sydney, Canberra, Melbourne and
Hobart; but in Adelaide it was 7:00am; in Darwin it was 6:00am; in
Brisbane it was 6:30am; and in Perth it was 4:30am! The ABC just does
not care! Complain and you will be sent the publications for you to
research ABC policies so that you can identify the details of the
complaint and correctly reference these, and lodge a 'proper'
complaint! Little wonder that many criticize the bold critic of many
others that spruiks certain judgement in: Media Watch; The
Checkout; and Factcheck. People in glass houses . . . as
the saying goes.
+
“What
I like doing best is Nothing.”
“How
do you do Nothing,” asked Pooh after he had wondered for a long
time.
“Well,
it's when people call out to you just as you're going off to do it,
'What are you going to do, Christopher Robin?' and you say, 'Oh,
Nothing,' and then you go and do it.
It
means just going along, listening to all the things you can't hear,
and not bothering.”
“Oh!”
said Pooh.
##
Shetland
Reel whiskey is marked as being 'bottled' on the island of Unst;
Shetland Reel gin is said to be 'produced'on the same island in
the old RAF base stores building: but I have never seen any sign of a
still in the place that it is said to be; neither have I seen any
actions suggesting such activity; or indeed, any activity that might
suggest bottling of any whiskey. Some suggest a miniature still is
used; others a mobile one; few challenge the marketing mystery.
Still, it is a mystery. One rarely sees any vehicles around the
stores building until it is opened for the recycling day that the
church runs. The whiskey is said to be imported from what turns out
to be a failed old distillery in Portsoy, Scotland that has been more closed
than open over the last 100 years; but this does not change the
promotion of its vintage and heritage as though it was a grand past.
The distillery has been purchased by some entrepreneurs who are again
promoting it and selling off old stock. It is this whiskey that seems
to be that which is being bottled, branded and sold as Shetland
Reel – suggestive of being real Shetland whiskey. Most know
otherwise, but most still play the 'let's pretend game.' It is just
like Waterford Crystal. The less said, the better – or so it seems.
*
Frank
Gehry made a rude gesture recently . . . He then ranted:
Let
me tell you one thing. In this world we are living in, 98 per cent of
everything that is built and designed today is pure sh*t. There's no
sense of design, no respect for humanity or for anything else. They
are damn buildings and that's it. Once in a while, however, there's a
small group of people who does something special. Very few. But good
god, leave us alone!
Form; function?
and
. . . over
many problems they found with the design and construction, (leaks,
falling ice blocking exits, and the like), Gehry blamed cost-cutting
measures in construction . . .
see also:
31 OCTOBER 2015
Gehry's Art Gallery of Ontario gives a new meaning to 'Waterford'
http://www.blogto.com/city/2009/03/frank_gehrys_ago_springs_a_leak/
2 NOVEMBER 2015
ON BRANDING
What if people could
be persuaded to be less impressed by underlying realities and start
instead to think what brand names might suggest? That would
give one scope for the brand to conjure up all sorts of imaginary
associations. Then we would start paying much more attention to these
ephemeral but attractive associations than to dreary old reality.
Before long we would concentrate solely on appearances and forget all about realities. Eventually we might even come to believe that appearance was reality. Then brand would have ceased to be the dull slave of reality, authenticating that something was really what it seemed to be, and would have become the gadfly king of virtual reality, joking that anything could be anything, really.
Before long we would concentrate solely on appearances and forget all about realities. Eventually we might even come to believe that appearance was reality. Then brand would have ceased to be the dull slave of reality, authenticating that something was really what it seemed to be, and would have become the gadfly king of virtual reality, joking that anything could be anything, really.
Branding is now the
art of getting people to think what something might be rather than
what it necessarily is. It's about the manipulation of the virtual
reality in which so many live. The manipulators include anyone with
an interest in what we might think of them - not just big companies
with products to sell but political parties with votes to win, design
gurus with clients to attract - anyone, in other words, acting in
some kind of market. They all have an interest in controlling their
appearance to make us believe it is the reality.
John Humphrys Beyond Words How
Language Reveals The Way We Live Now Hodder and Stoughton. Great
Britain 2006, p. 86-87
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